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With a used car you always buy its history too. For dealers that matters twice over: you are liable to consumers for defects, and hidden damage can rarely be priced in when reselling. The earlier you spot gaps in the history, the less time you lose on cars you won’t buy in the end.
- The 17-character VIN must match in the papers and on the car – in several places.
- The registration certificate part II (Fahrzeugbrief) is the key proof of ownership; the seller should show the original.
- Mileages from the service book, HU reports and invoices form a line that has to match the odometer.
- Accident damage shows in panel gaps, paint thickness and welds – not just in what the seller says.
- Open recalls can be checked with the German Federal Motor Transport Authority (KBA) and the manufacturer.
- If things don’t add up, the price advantage is rarely worth the risk.
1. Already on the phone: the right questions
A lot can be cleared up before you set off. Ask specifically and note the answers:
- How many keepers are in the registration certificate part II, and is the seller the registered keeper?
- Is there a service book or digital service records, and when was the last service?
- Did the car have accident or hail damage, and was it repaired – where, and with an invoice?
- Are the last HU report and invoices for major repairs available?
- Is the car still registered, and how many keys are there?
2. Matching VIN and papers
The vehicle identification number (VIN, in German FIN) has 17 characters and is unique. It is in the registration certificate parts I and II and in several places on the car – usually on the type plate, behind the windscreen and stamped into the body.
- Compare the VIN in both papers with every place on the car. Differences, scratch marks or covered plates are a reason to walk away.
- Ask to see the original registration certificate part II and compare the last keeper with the seller’s ID.
- If someone who isn’t the registered keeper is selling, ask why and for a power of attorney or proof of purchase.
- Check that equipment and engine match the VIN – many manufacturers and dealers can look up the factory specification by VIN.
3. Is the mileage plausible?
Odometer tampering is illegal in Germany, but it happens. A single value can hardly be checked – a series of values can. Put every mileage you can find side by side:
- entries in the service book and on workshop invoices,
- mileages in the HU reports,
- oil-change stickers, tyre invoices, the manufacturer’s digital service records.
The values must rise steadily with the date. If wear doesn’t match the odometer – a worn steering wheel, a sagging driver’s seat, worn pedals on low mileage – be careful. On many cars a diagnostic tool also shows mileages stored in other control units.
4. Spotting accident damage
A repaired accident is not automatically a reason to walk away – but it has to be known and reflected in the price. At the inspection look for:
- uneven panel gaps on doors, bonnet, boot and wings,
- colour differences, overspray on seals and differences in paint thickness (gauge),
- non-original welds, sealant or marks on the bolts of add-on parts,
- different production dates on windows and lights.
For high-value cars or when in doubt, an inspection by a testing organisation or workshop pays off. The cost is small compared with the risk.
5. Recalls and manufacturer data
Open recalls are no obstacle to buying, but they should be done before you sell. The KBA publishes recalls in a database; whether a particular car is affected is clarified by an authorised workshop of the manufacturer using the VIN. Digital service entries can often be retrieved there too.
In CarFalke, details such as accident-free, service history, previous owners and HU appear on the listing once the detail page has been read. In a saved search you can set conditions such as “accident-free” or “full service history” so cars with an unclear history don’t show up at all. That doesn’t replace the check on site – but it saves calls.
